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Ford Spark Plug Removal Tool – Picture of Ford’s Bad Design

10:44 am Auto Specialty Tools, Consumer, Ford Problems, Lisle Specialty Tools

LIS_65600_Removed_Shield

Success!

Continued from the previous page.
What if the porcelain is not broken?
If the porcelain is not stuck you can skip the first step of pushing it to allow access. The puller housing is placed in the hole, then the puller screw goes down the center. After the puller screw is self tapped into the electrode shield, the nylon washer and nut is attached. And by tightening the nut on the puller screw, the broken electrode shield is pulled out. Here are the complete directions that are included with the Lisle 65600 broken spark plug remover tool kit – LIS65600 DLT pdf.
Gary R.
Dennis; just a quick note to let you know how my repair went today. I did receive the tool today as you said I would. The whole tool set including the case was more than I expected for a special function tool. I read the enclosed instruction with great optimism knowing I had three broken plug ends to remove. Within two hours and fifteen minutes I had all three broken plug ends out and the new plugs in and my truck running great. One item I needed and didn’t have was a 15/16″ deep well socket. If the extraction nut was reduced to 7/8″ outside diameter the standard 3/8″ drive socket set that I have would have had all the tools needed for success. I am grateful for the high level of customer service given to me with regard to ordering and shipping, the superior quality of the tool and the unparalleled success of function. Thank you Dennis 
Chris C.
 
06/18/2011 – Lisle 65600 Ford 3 valve Triton 5.4 (2004) – 90k miles on the truck. Replaced all eight plugs, six of which broke. Using the Lisle 65600 was very easy once all the tools were laid out. You will need ratchets, extensions and patience. The Lisle 65600 turned out to be an excellent tool. Took five hours but in the end, replaced the faulty plugs with new Champion 1 piece plugs. Tool worked absolutely flawless. Take your time and follow the directions. Key item not disclosed was remove the battery first, the computer second and then remove each coil slowly. We “never seized” all threads when replacing all parts. The major concern of leaving crumpled broken ceramic in the cylinder was mitigated with a vacuum using a small hose inserted in to the cylinder. The vacuum can did show small particles of ceramic at the bottom. Truck runs better now than it has in a while. You will notice some slight smoking when started up after repair due to the PB blaster, or carbon cleaner used to soak after first cracking the plugs loose. We let sit for an hour and still the majority of plugs came out in pieces. The two that came out intact felt as though they were broken when removing. One other came out with entire electrode and ceramic but left the metal shield in the bottom. It came out using the tool. Ford should eat the cost of these repairs for those unable to muster the courage to try and fix themselves since this was clearly their poor design that caused the issue. Simply be very patient and follow the directions carefully and this tool will work just fine. Thanks for the tool and the comment blog as they helped as well.

Mike T

Question – 08/15/2011 – How do I remove the electrode pin prior to using 3v broken spark plug extractor? Alright, I spent hours and hours researching this plug replacement job so I could do it myself. I bought every tool and lubricant and whatever I could find to do the job right. All I’ve heard about this Lisle 65600 kit is how easy it is to use and how much time it saves. Two pretty important details I didn’t see, and I saw A LOT of information about removing these plugs, is that the top portion of the porcelain that has the thick wire sticking out of it has to be snapped and pulled out before you can use this tool. This to me is a very difficult thing to get done. I have long needle nose pliers that slip off of the tip and is not working. Especially on the two plugs closest to the cab, no room to play at all. Second, the hex nut that attaches to the puller screw is pretty big. I have a large socket set, but not one that fits this nut! So, what is this quick and easy way of getting the broken plug out before I can use the kit to get the broken plug out? And what size socket do I need to go buy to turn the hex nut? Thanks and I look forward to any help you can give and hopefully finishing this two day head-ache soon…Michael.

Answer – Mike the size socket was mentioned by Gary above. It’s a 15/16″ socket for the nut. Most of the time, if the plug ends up breaking, the electrode pin will come out with the top piece of the broken plug. Needle nose pliers with the tip curved like in the video below is the best way to remove the porcelain top. The pin usually comes out with the porcelain top. However if the pin does not come out with the top half of the spark plug, I would recommend trying a small diameter wooden dowel rod (from local home improvement store). Drill a 5/64″ hole in the bottom of the dowel. Then use a little glue in the hole that has been drilled. The dowel can hopefully then be inserted engaging the pin. Once time has been allowed for the glue to dry, the pin should come out. Be sure to watch the video below to see the common scenario. Good Luck 

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

LIS_65600_S

Latest revision available now at DenLors Tools – Click to see. Champion 7989 One Piece Design Spark Plug Ford 3V

See the helpful video below for more information on using the Lisle 65600 DLT. After you watch the video, click on the image above to order yours now.

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106 Responses
  1. Archie :

    Date: November 26, 2015 @ 5:53 pm

    All eight plugs broke during removal on my 2006 Mark LT. Anticipating this, ordered the Lisle
    65600. Pushing the porcelain is my only fear. All have left behind the ground electrode shield. 6 of the plugs left behind empty electrode shields with the porcelain. Any suggestion on using the new Lisle extractor when resuming the work.
    Thank you for being detailed and helpful in advance!
    Archie

  2. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 27, 2015 @ 9:49 am

    Archie, I would have done one at a time instead of breaking all 8 first. I would have had suggestions for trying not to break them to begin with, but what’s done is done. I would at this point follow the instructions. Keep in mind we have replacement puller screws. They are a wear item that may need to be replaced, especially since you’re doing all eight. Good Luck.

  3. Archie :

    Date: December 4, 2015 @ 1:52 pm

    Dennis,
    I was successful with all eight broken plug extractions. Truck is now running but cuts out completely when attempting to accelerate. It acts like a fuel problem – idles poorly, and gives me nothing when in gear. I appreciate any help you can provide.
    Thank you,
    Archie

  4. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 4, 2015 @ 1:58 pm

    Fuel pressure reading? Vacuum leaks. Codes… Good Luck

  5. Mke :

    Date: April 21, 2017 @ 12:40 am

    Hey Guys, I have a Ford 2005 Expedition 5.4. In Oct 2016 cyl. #2 showed misfire code. I replaced plug (rusty) eventually found leak in the heater hose control valve right above cyl. #2. Next code on #4 replaced using Lisle. Tough area great tool. This month had some time so decided that I would replace the rest, no codes but you know the drill on these Tritons rough lower gear shifting etc. So.. 2 plugs a day first 5 all broke a little extra twist to complete the separation and all came out looking like syringes. Good job. Lisle pulled the nose cone great on all. #3cyl. though right now still has entire length of the electrode and at first all the ceramic intact without the nut casing. The top stem broke while trying to use the needle nose pliers to get the remaining plug out. It is extremely tight. What should I try? J/B weld the nut collar back on and try again to break the ceramic at the nose ? Or J/B weld a steel tube to the electrode to try to twist it out and then possibly bore out the ceramic down to the top of the nosecone? Whew! Thanks, Mike

  6. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 21, 2017 @ 7:25 am

    Mike, JB Weld is good but I don’t think it’s going to help in this situation. I’d try the Lisle Porcelain Puller which is included in the Lisle 65700 kit. Also, for others reading this we now have the OTC 6918 that grips the plug assembly keeping it together so that it can be removed without breaking it to begin with.

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