DenLorsTools.com Summary: FAQ’s for the Rescue Bit. Easy outs are not easy to drill. The metal is so hard that a regular or even a cobalt drill bit cannot touch it. We have had many customers call to ask what do you have that can drill out a broken tool like this? Fortunately, we have a tool that answers this question. “How do you drill out and remove a broken EZ-Out?” Read below or go directly to our Rescue Bits For Sale section. Read the rest…

Click the image for a larger view.

DenLorsTools.com Summary: Since 2005 at DenLorsTools.com and now our most recent tool website, WiseAutoTools.com, we’ve been answering questions on Ford spark plug thread repair kits. It always amazes us that there’s always new questions. A recent inquiry was regarding a 1998 Lincoln Navigator blown spark plug. I recommended the 5553 thread repair kit for the job. The Lincoln Navigator owner would prefer to use the less expensive Calvan 38900 kit and questioned why I made the recommendation that I did. Below is a copy of our correspondence.

Read the rest…

DenLorsTools.com Summary: This article is on the evolving tool industry. There’s been many industries that have experienced change over the years. More on that in this article. Franchise tool sales companies like Snap On, Matco, Mac, Cornwell and USA Tools are currently feeling the squeeze due to many reasons, but primarily because of online tool sales. As an automotive tech for many years, I’ve seen a lot of tool truck franchise owners come and go. The most dependable one that I can remember was the Snap On guy. The next was USA Tools, which was basically an independent truck that sold many of the same tools that we sell on our websites today at DenLorsTools.com and WiseAutoTools.com.

Read the rest…

DenLorsTools.com Summary: I recently did the NAV update on my wife’s 2013 Infiniti G37 Coupe. The update came with 5 DVD’s and the update process is done by following the directions and putting the DVD’s in the CD player one by one. 

Read the rest…

DenLorsTools.com Summary: Motor vehicle air conditioning questions answered from all over the world by a master air conditioning technician in Florida. Simple to understand terms are used to resolve issues and to help the reader understand problems with their car’s Air con system (A/C system). Low gas (refrigerant) is the most common problem a car’s aircon system could have, but it’s not always the issue. One shouldn’t assume that the solution is always to top-up (top off) a system. A re-gas that adds too much R134A only causes more problems. Many garages will do a free pressure check. However, simply checking the pressure readings is not a foolproof test of the air conditioning system’s health. But, a knowledgeable motor vehicle technician can make a good evaluation of the A/C’s performance based on the readings and a visual inspection of the components. After evaluation, a ragas (recharge) may be done or a more accurate fill of refrigerant can be performed by removing the remaining refrigerant, vacuuming the system down and recharging with the vehicle’s specified amount of gas.

Read the rest…

DenLorsTools.com Summary: Questions answered by a master tech, regarding a car’s AC system when the Freon just won’t leave the can. When the vehicle’s air conditioning system doesn’t accept a charge of refrigerant there can be many issues, or the problem could be solved easily. Understanding how the system works in easy to understand terms is the best place to start. This and other helpful A/C articles when it’s hot outside and it’s time to get the car’s air con working again.

Read the rest…

DenLorsTools.com Summary: One of our recent questions was regarding a performance issue and lean codes on a Ford F150. The fact that the catalytic converters were removed was skated over as a non issue. There are several things to consider before going to the extreme of removing a catalytic converter. Legal issues, running or performance issues etc. See the following for more information on what can happen and why the catalytic converter or converters should not be removed.

Read the rest…

DenLorsTools.com Summary: Special tooling is required to properly install Time Sert inserts. I know sounds like it’s either a no brainer… or a sales pitch to make customers buy expensive thread repair kits. Well apparently it’s hard for some to understand that proper tools for the installation of Time Sert inserts are necessary. That’s the reason for this quick auto tool blog.

Maybe it’s the economy. But lately we have been inundated with customers that are really trying to save money. Hey there’s nothing wrong with being frugal or as I like to say “being conservative”. However this is a line that can be crossed. The problem with trying to skimp on tools and just trying to get the job done as cheaply as possible is that “sometimes the job is not a success“. A failed repair ends up costing more in the long run. It’s takes more time, it may damage components beyond repair, there’s more down time, the repair may not last or it may not work at all.

Some customers want to purchase just the insert. Read on to hear how some of the conversations go.

Read the rest…

DenLorsTools.com Summary: With almost 30 years experience as a master technician, I have worked in some extreme conditions inside un-airconditioned shops in the Florida heat. A shop fan or blower is a must if the shop isn’t air conditioned, usually several are needed.

Read the rest…

DenLorsTools.com Summary: So what’s the best refrigerant leak detector to use when looking for leaks on car air conditioning systems? I’ll answer that but first a little quick history. I originally used a propane leak detector when I started working on air conditioning on cars back at Goodyear in the 1980’s. The old propane leak detectors were very dependable. No false alarms. When Freon burns the flame turns a green and with very large leaks it turns into a bright purple. Problem is with burning Freon, toxic fumes are produced. It’s called Phosgene Gas. Very poisonous. I learned quickly that you don’t want to get a whiff of that. Obviously the propane leak detector was discontinued because of obvious reasons. As a side note. Refrigerant sucked up from the cars intake can burn in the engine and spew out Phosgene also. Once while working in an enclosed shop at CarMax, a tech working next to me had a huge Freon leak while the car was running. The Freon was immediately burned and spit out the exhaust. Not a pleasant thing to be around. Anyway, the point is; if you ever have a large refrigerant leak while working on a vehicle, make sure the engine is off until the area can be ventilated.

Refrigerant Leak Detectors

Refrigerant leak detectors need at least 50 psi of Freon in a system to be able to work. After-all they detect Freon and if there’s not enough in a system to leak out, how could it work? And check the system with a good electronic leak detector. I recommend that you don’t trust a leak detector every time it beeps, even with a good one. I’ve used leak detectors that would go off when sniffing an oak leaf, anti-freeze from the engine’s cooling system and even my breath! The best electronic leak detector that I’ve ever used was a Yokogawa/Bacharach. They are not cheap, but anyone doing a lot of AC work knows how expensive and time consuming it can be to misdiagnose leaks. So it’s important to have the best one you can afford. I first learned about the Yokogawa brand years ago (while working at CarMax) when I read a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from Nissan which named it as their only authorized leak detector for their warranty work. That’s when I purchased one. I paid way too much to the Snap On guy that had to special order it. He probably doubled his money on me. That’s a common practice for tool truck guys… That was way before I considered selling tools myself. No false alarms ever with my Yokogawa. We sell other brands but if anyone ever asks I always recommend the Yokogawa (also known as Bacharach).

 World’s Best Freon Leak Detector

So the Yokogawa leak detector that I purchased looked a little like an electronic device used in NASA from the 60’s or 70’s. It was made with metal and was stored in a vinyl case; an almost leather looking pouch. They look basically the same today. It plugged into an electrical outlet instead of running on batteries. While this makes it a little less convenient to use, it helps it to be more dependable because the power supply is constant. It also had to warm up before using it. But the greatest thing about it was- it never gave me a false alarm. If it alarmed, there was a leak. That’s saying a lot. It also works on all types of refrigerant including R12 and 134A. The TIF models that I had used prior to this always gave plenty of false alarms. The TIF and other battery operated leak detectors that I used, also tended to be even less dependable as the batteries faded.  So in my book, the best leak detector in the world is the H10 Yokogawa. See the AC Leak Detection Tools section.