Thank you for the clarification, especially on the crank bolt and sensor contamination. I will continue to check wiring and connections. My students truly enjoyed a real “hands on” project with this Colorado and I know they’ll be excited when it’s finally done.

Thank you so much! Had the P0017 code on my Hummer H3 and it was exactly like you said. The screen on the cam solenoid was ripped… Wow.. Thanks!

For our update: It’s going on three weeks now and we still have not determined the problem. A rough idle seems to be setting the P0017. It only sets at idle, never at highway speeds. Have checked all vacuum hoses, ports, and wiring connections since last posting. Tech II shows misfire on 1,3,&4 cylinders sporadically, and only, at idle, sometimes no misfire, sometimes right away. Shutting off injectors individually produces expected drop in RPM and rougher idle. The guys (as well as their instructor) are frustrated and baffled. The only check left on the GM protocol is to open the engine and check timing. Ouch, that’s a couple of day job with only 50 minute periods! Quite a bummer on a fresh crate engine. Thanks for your help!

I have an 07 Colorado 2.9 liter Lt truck and I have P0017 trouble code and that’s the only code the code first Showed up at 30000 miles and has never gone away I took it back to the dealer and they replace the crank and cam position sensors then replaced the entire timing system and then replaced the motor and the trouble code has never gone away longer then a month I’ve even replace the camshaft cylinoid that was possible for that screen problem that everybody’s talking about but that didn’t fix it either I now have a 100000 miles and want to sell the truck but no one wants to buy the truck with that trouble code please help me.

I’d just like to pass along an update on my 2005 Colorado lk5. The re manufacturer instructed me to tear into and check the exhaust camshaft actuator, (commonly called a phaser) which turned out to be faulty and appears to be made of Unobtanium as no one stocks or makes these. I am going to reassemble the engine until someone starts making them again. I hope this can help others who seem to have exhausted (no pun intended) their options.

Jim, it may be time to take it to a shop for assistance. Maybe there’s some build-up preventing it from being removed easily. Good Luck.

Nancy, this article is not on the Malibu. However, I would recheck all work including timing chain and whatever “other parts” were just changed. Good Luck.

Ron the VVT sensor would be the Variable Valve Timing. This adjusts the timing Variable Valve Timing solenoid which changes the timing slightly under certain conditions. The camshaft position sensor is different. Look the part up on a parts website for an image. Good Luck.

After installing a part like that you need to clear the code. It will not go away immediately all by itself. You may want a local shop assist in diagnosing so you’re not just throwing a bunch of parts at the problem. They will have an idea of how to change the harder to access parts, if needed. Good Luck.

I have a 2006 hummer h3 3.5l has the p0017 code I replace crankshaft and camshaft sensors (3) also the solenoid (the screen was missing) and still the same code I took off the oil pan and find small metal pieces aluminum I guess I clean everything and also replace the timing kit chain and tensioners put new oil and filter also replace the oil pump(because the oil light was on at low rpm fix the oil light) but the same code appeared the hummer works fine like for 20 min but once it reaches the normal temperature stalls I have to let the engine off for a period of time cool it down and then works fine but happen again once the temperature is at normal and I don’t know what to do

ok thanks dennisb but why is showing that code or what does that code mean why turns the engine off is because the gap of the sensor and the facer is big or why or the engine got stuck or is computer disorder the computer is confused ????/

thanks

ok thanks is there any kind of additive or sludge removal you recommend

I have a 2006 Canyon, 2.8L with P0017 and P0303 codes. Truck runs great except for a little misfire. Took it to 2 shops for diagnostics. First one said CKP to exhaust correlation. #3 intake valve has either carbon build up or dropped valve seat (possibly sitting crooked). Performed compression & leak down test and found 80% leaking. Recommend removing cyl head as next step in vehicle repairs. The second shop replaced #3 coil and said the timing chain is stretched. It runs great now but still has P0017 code. How do I know who to believe?

I replaced the camshaft actuator solenoid valve before I took it to either shop. The weird thing is that all 3 screens were intact but there was a crumpled screen stuck to one of the good screens. Where could that have come from?

My 08 Colorado had the same code pulled the cam actuator. Screens were all in tact. Replaced it anyway and the codes were gone. All good while inspecting my truck I seen a very small oil drip on the rubber inspection plug all around was dry. A little concerned but was happy the actuated got rid of the codes and rough idle and limp mode stopped. Next day truck running fine drove about 30 miles and truck died pulled over appeared to me hot. Let it cool off and drove another 15 miles pulled over let it cool down and huge oil puddle under truck. Looked under truck and to my horror oil everywhere my under garage was covered and dripping from the frame I mean everywhere put a quart of oil in it and Drove it another 40 miles and made it home. First response was I blew rear main seal. Oil was dripping at a quick pace from that rubber plug and the silver round thing. Please tell me it’s not the rear main

This is driving me nuts! 2006 Chevy Colorado with 36,000 miles and a P0017 code. Took it to the dealer. $290 later, they cleaned the cam shaft sensor (no ripped screens), but still no dice. Next day, and another $980 later, they replace the actuator, and still throwing the code. Then they tell me my timing chain is loose/stretched, and needs to be replaced. Thing is, truck runs fine: no noise, no low power issues, nothing. If this doesn’t fix it, I’m not sure how much more I should have done to it.

I’d inspect them. Possibly worn engine causing repeat failure. Good Luck.

I’m so glad too see I’m not the only one struggling with this code. My ’06 Collie has had the CEL on since I bought it was 2500 miles. No big deal, didn’t have to pass emissions back then.

Now I live somewhere where emissions testing is required. I’ve replaced the crank sensor, cam sensor and VVT sensor. I Fire it up and it runs great, no light.

Then I shut it off, start it up again and there’s the light. Same code, P0017. The guys at Autozone look at me like a moron when I ask what to do next. My tags have been expired for a YEAR now and I don’t know what else to do. Local shop says it’ll be “about $1,000 to figure out what’s wrong.

I keep up with maintenance so it’s hard to believe the motor is sludged. I really don’t want to have to buy another vehicle.

Any advice would be very appreciated

08 canyon 3.7 with 130,000 klm. I have had a 2-3 sec. rattle on start up since 60k. It seems to be getting a bit worse now, I am going to change the cam actuator on camshaft,is there anything I can do to prevent the new one from doing it again,
It seems the new one has not been changed up to a better one, am
I wasting my time as I know it is a very common complaint and dealerships say it is normal, which I believe to be just a brush off. running synthetic since new with oem filter, engine is clean internally, sol checked.

All I have to say is Chevrolet should really be ashamed for making these engines so shoddy.These things should all be recalled because theres just to much garbage parts and they made the engines with valve seats to soft and the no it.After making vehicles for as many years as they have and to pay engineers what they do we should all receive a quality replacement engine.Ive replaced everything in the electronic sensor line you cant make them stop giving codes.Its a sorry way to make anything toy companies can do better.I wish I could take mine back to the factory and park it there with a sign describing to them what they have produced.i hope there proud ripping people off with junk.

Brian, the thermostat not working properly would likely set a different code (P1281) unrelated to the P0017. Based on the current mileage at 145,000 it wouldn’t surprise me if the timing chain has some play. But since the code has been present for seven years the timing chain was not the original issue. I’d examine the screen in the solenoid for bits of metal and go from there. Good Luck.

Tina, I would think that this should be covered under your warranty if you would have taken it to the dealer. The dealer is not going to pay for repairs done at an independent shop after the fact though. Good Luck.

Don’t know, but would never suggest doing that. Just like I would never recommend removing the screen in a pick-up tube for an oil pump. Garbage just would go further causing problems. Good Luck.

Glad the article helped. Thanks for commenting.

Hello David. I’d check the PCV system. As you probably know an inoperative PCV system can cause leaks to sprout due to increased crankcase pressure. Erratic idle could be normal until the computer develops a new fuel strategy for the different engine. Fuel mileage could also be affected until then. Of course this is assuming there’s no vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks before O2’s etc. Never had any luck just cleaning the solenoid, only replacing it. Oil leaks have nothing to do with the solenoid’s operation as long as the level is kept full. I assume this is a brand new or re-manufactured long block. Hopefully the supplier will pay some warranty time for a rear main seal. Prior to installing “used engines” I always replace the rear main seal, just in case. Seals dry out and leak when engines sit at the bone yard. I’d make sure the rattle goes away if you can, before doing the rear main seal though. Hopefully just lifters with some air getting worked out. Good Luck.